11 Jan 2005

Tongariro Northern Circuit


   Mt. Ngaurahoe crater

Two days seemed like enough to take in everything we could within the Tongariro area, so from Whakapappa Village we walked in to Mangatepopo campsite the first night. This meant we could get an early start the next morning to beat the crowds starting the Tongariro Crossing. We go there just in time to see the sunset over the valley, and it was so clear we could see Mt. Taranaki (Egmont) in the distance.

Fantastic weather for both days – hot, sunny, and clear blue skies…summer might finally have arrived! A steep climb leads up the volcanic pathways to Mangatepopo Saddle, after a short side trip to Soda Springs. We set off before 8 and overtook all the keen (early) tourist day-walkers within the first half hour. We dumped our packs at the base of Mt. Ngauruhoe and started the (very) steep scree climb up to the crater. WOW – absoloutely incredible views from the top, and I’d never imagined how big the inside of a crater would be. Although in and out of cloud, we had 360 degree views of the rugged volcanic area, with Mt. Tongariro, Ruapehu and Blue Lake standing as impressive landmarks. Scree running down was fun, and definitely much quicker than the scramble up.

Still climbing up to Red Crater, the track continues down to Emerald Lakes but first we dumped the packs again for another (shorter) side trip up Mt. Tongariro. Again the views were fantastic as far as Lake Taupo and beyond, giving a different perspective of the entire area. Back to the track and down to Emerald Lakes for a late lunch and then we split from the main Tongariro Crossing Walk and continued on the Northern Circuit track to Otuhere campsite.

The next day the track winds down the Ohutere Valley to Waihomono Hut…the old hut built in 1904 still stands (after recent renovations) and has a fascinating history portrayed by a timeline, pictures, and antiques on display inside. Undulating back up the valley, a short side trip leads to Tama Lakes (worth a stop and a perfect lunch spot at lower Tama!), then the track leads back to Whakapappa Village. The side loop via Taranaki Falls is equally superb and also worth the slight detour. It was a brilliant two days with totally contrasting scenery to the South Island.

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