Queen Charlotte Track
Here's the full story...!
I left Nelson around 11:30am after giving my bike a good scrubbing, and drove to Picton. Leaving my car at the Picton VIP Lodge Backpackers which I'd booked into, I took the water taxi with my bike out to Ship Cove. They were then going to deliver my pack to Endeavor Inlet, where I was staying the first night. I biked from Ship Cove to Endeavor Resort, passing Resolution Bay. It was a bit of a grind – I was pretty tired and feeling a bit flat, the weather was overcast and misty and the ground was incredibly muddy due to rain over the past few days. The first 4km were uphill and I could never get going because the mud was so bad, so I ended up walking most of that. Once up on the saddle, it was a bit better, although I got stuck several times in rocks, tree roots and mud, and once my clipless shoes got caked in mud I got stuck in the pedals and had a few amusing falls. Well, at first it was frustrating, and the more it happened I just started to laugh at myself. However, I was pretty glad to make it to Endeavor Resort, although there was no hot water and I took a while to warm up huddled around the stove in my wee cabin.
I made use of the free kayaks the next morning with a short paddle in the bay which was nice, although the holes in the kayak didn’t do me any favours – starting out wet and cold wasn’t going to be pleasant.
I had about my 10th mug of hot water, before setting out on the trail again. The sun came out though and I warmed up quickly, it was much better weather the second day. Once up on the Kenepru Saddle the views were spectacular over the Marlborough Sounds – everything was so still and calm, there was hardly any sound and nobody to be seen. I had passed one couple that morning but saw nobody else until I reached Portage Bay.
The track passes loads of beautiful coves and inlets – the water is incredibly blue and clear – and climbs many hills as well as descending several rocky parts. I had lunch at Eatwells Lookout, a short hike up a separate track, where there are 360 degree views which were just amazing.
I also got more confident on the hills (both up and down) as the day went on, but of course still had some funny falls and got stuck in the mud a few times. My back brake wasn’t working properly most of the day (probably stuck with mud) but I couldn’t seem to fix it so just continued, seeing as I wasn’t exactly breaking speed limits on the downhill sections anyway. Again, pretty pleased to reach Portage, as my bum was starting to ache at the end of the day! I hosed off my bike, and myself, and then got into my cabin, which again, I had to myself. A hot shower was extremely welcome this time, and then I made myself some dinner and read for a bit. Went to the lounge area (there was a fancy part to this hotel too although I was staying in the backpackers section!) and sat by the fire, chatting to some French guy who was sailing and had arrived on his yacht that day. I always seem to meet French people. Another early night because I was shattered, but had enjoyed this day much more!
The next morning I set off about 9:30am, and biked up the road to Mistletoe Bay, instead of on the track – it was going to be a massive incline on muddy, rocky terrain so I knew I’d probably have to push most of it. The road was better, and still challenging but a bit more fun! I joined the track again and biked on to Anakiwa – probably the nicest part of the track to bike, gradual ups and downs, and then a long but rocky downhill into Anakiwa.
The 1km sign was very welcoming to see. I biked back along the windy road to Picton – a steep hill up with loads of curves up to the top and then down a similar road on the other side into Picton. Showers and wind started to come in (a ‘Southerly'...I'm learning these weather patterns slowly!) during the last half hour, so it was good timing as the afternoon had pretty bad weather. I couldn’t feel my toes anymore when I reached Picton, but I collected by pack, dismantled my bike into the back of the car, and had a well-deserved hot shower at the Backpackers. I went into town (which is tiny) after some lunch and had a look around, and mainly full of touristy shops. The Toot 'n' Whistle pub next to the VIP Backpackers is worth a visit - it had a nice atmosphere and I met a couple of cool people in there in the evening.
The overview...
Leaving from Ship Cove in the afternoon, I cycled to Endeavor Inlet on the first day. Despite overcast conditions, the misty views added to the beauty of the place. The second day the sun came out, and once up on the Kenepuru Saddle, the views were spectacular. It was completely calm and still looking over the Sounds, and I didn't see more than two people before arriving in Portage Bay. I was covered in mud (as was my bike), and having gone through several alternating feelings of amusement and annoyance at falling off, a hot shower was more than welcome! The sunset over Portage Bay was superb - peacefulness seemed to surround the entire area. The following morning I biked out to Anakiwa, and then back along the road to Picton. Despite the fact I'd have probably enjoyed the track more biking with someone else, I'm really glad I've seen it at this time of year when there are so few people about, it is definitely an amazing area.
I left Nelson around 11:30am after giving my bike a good scrubbing, and drove to Picton. Leaving my car at the Picton VIP Lodge Backpackers which I'd booked into, I took the water taxi with my bike out to Ship Cove. They were then going to deliver my pack to Endeavor Inlet, where I was staying the first night. I biked from Ship Cove to Endeavor Resort, passing Resolution Bay. It was a bit of a grind – I was pretty tired and feeling a bit flat, the weather was overcast and misty and the ground was incredibly muddy due to rain over the past few days. The first 4km were uphill and I could never get going because the mud was so bad, so I ended up walking most of that. Once up on the saddle, it was a bit better, although I got stuck several times in rocks, tree roots and mud, and once my clipless shoes got caked in mud I got stuck in the pedals and had a few amusing falls. Well, at first it was frustrating, and the more it happened I just started to laugh at myself. However, I was pretty glad to make it to Endeavor Resort, although there was no hot water and I took a while to warm up huddled around the stove in my wee cabin.
I made use of the free kayaks the next morning with a short paddle in the bay which was nice, although the holes in the kayak didn’t do me any favours – starting out wet and cold wasn’t going to be pleasant.
I had about my 10th mug of hot water, before setting out on the trail again. The sun came out though and I warmed up quickly, it was much better weather the second day. Once up on the Kenepru Saddle the views were spectacular over the Marlborough Sounds – everything was so still and calm, there was hardly any sound and nobody to be seen. I had passed one couple that morning but saw nobody else until I reached Portage Bay.
The track passes loads of beautiful coves and inlets – the water is incredibly blue and clear – and climbs many hills as well as descending several rocky parts. I had lunch at Eatwells Lookout, a short hike up a separate track, where there are 360 degree views which were just amazing.
I also got more confident on the hills (both up and down) as the day went on, but of course still had some funny falls and got stuck in the mud a few times. My back brake wasn’t working properly most of the day (probably stuck with mud) but I couldn’t seem to fix it so just continued, seeing as I wasn’t exactly breaking speed limits on the downhill sections anyway. Again, pretty pleased to reach Portage, as my bum was starting to ache at the end of the day! I hosed off my bike, and myself, and then got into my cabin, which again, I had to myself. A hot shower was extremely welcome this time, and then I made myself some dinner and read for a bit. Went to the lounge area (there was a fancy part to this hotel too although I was staying in the backpackers section!) and sat by the fire, chatting to some French guy who was sailing and had arrived on his yacht that day. I always seem to meet French people. Another early night because I was shattered, but had enjoyed this day much more!
The next morning I set off about 9:30am, and biked up the road to Mistletoe Bay, instead of on the track – it was going to be a massive incline on muddy, rocky terrain so I knew I’d probably have to push most of it. The road was better, and still challenging but a bit more fun! I joined the track again and biked on to Anakiwa – probably the nicest part of the track to bike, gradual ups and downs, and then a long but rocky downhill into Anakiwa.
The 1km sign was very welcoming to see. I biked back along the windy road to Picton – a steep hill up with loads of curves up to the top and then down a similar road on the other side into Picton. Showers and wind started to come in (a ‘Southerly'...I'm learning these weather patterns slowly!) during the last half hour, so it was good timing as the afternoon had pretty bad weather. I couldn’t feel my toes anymore when I reached Picton, but I collected by pack, dismantled my bike into the back of the car, and had a well-deserved hot shower at the Backpackers. I went into town (which is tiny) after some lunch and had a look around, and mainly full of touristy shops. The Toot 'n' Whistle pub next to the VIP Backpackers is worth a visit - it had a nice atmosphere and I met a couple of cool people in there in the evening.
The overview...
Leaving from Ship Cove in the afternoon, I cycled to Endeavor Inlet on the first day. Despite overcast conditions, the misty views added to the beauty of the place. The second day the sun came out, and once up on the Kenepuru Saddle, the views were spectacular. It was completely calm and still looking over the Sounds, and I didn't see more than two people before arriving in Portage Bay. I was covered in mud (as was my bike), and having gone through several alternating feelings of amusement and annoyance at falling off, a hot shower was more than welcome! The sunset over Portage Bay was superb - peacefulness seemed to surround the entire area. The following morning I biked out to Anakiwa, and then back along the road to Picton. Despite the fact I'd have probably enjoyed the track more biking with someone else, I'm really glad I've seen it at this time of year when there are so few people about, it is definitely an amazing area.
posted by Mhairi
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