Mt. Cheeseman

Spending a week at Mt. Cheeseman as the Junior Week “nanny” was more than I bargained for!! Actually, I ended up being pretty lucky, as the kids weren’t a hassle, and I was hardly ever inside more than 2 hours a day. So although I wasn’t paid for the week’s work, I had free accommodation, food and skiing for 6 days – a pretty good deal for me.


The Lodge at Cheeseman has a good atmosphere, many of the day trippers are regulars and everybody seems to know each other. By the end of the week we’d all had a really fun time, and it reminded me of our old ski holidays in Europe, particularly the après-ski antics.



I was slightly bored of the same runs by day 6 and should probably have rented a board for a day or two just for a wee challenge. But it was still fun helping the kids on and off the tee-bar, something you take for granted when you don’t remember learning yourself. Snow-shoe hiking to the ridge and bum-sliding down on bin bags (completely out of control) was a definite highlight…as was a midnight hike under a full moon after several drinks on the last night.

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Queen Charlotte Track

Here's the full story...!

I left Nelson around 11:30am after giving my bike a good scrubbing, and drove to Picton. Leaving my car at the Picton VIP Lodge Backpackers which I'd booked into, I took the water taxi with my bike out to Ship Cove. They were then going to deliver my pack to Endeavor Inlet, where I was staying the first night. I biked from Ship Cove to Endeavor Resort, passing Resolution Bay. It was a bit of a grind – I was pretty tired and feeling a bit flat, the weather was overcast and misty and the ground was incredibly muddy due to rain over the past few days. The first 4km were uphill and I could never get going because the mud was so bad, so I ended up walking most of that. Once up on the saddle, it was a bit better, although I got stuck several times in rocks, tree roots and mud, and once my clipless shoes got caked in mud I got stuck in the pedals and had a few amusing falls. Well, at first it was frustrating, and the more it happened I just started to laugh at myself. However, I was pretty glad to make it to Endeavor Resort, although there was no hot water and I took a while to warm up huddled around the stove in my wee cabin.

I made use of the free kayaks the next morning with a short paddle in the bay which was nice, although the holes in the kayak didn’t do me any favours – starting out wet and cold wasn’t going to be pleasant. I had about my 10th mug of hot water, before setting out on the trail again. The sun came out though and I warmed up quickly, it was much better weather the second day. Once up on the Kenepru Saddle the views were spectacular over the Marlborough Sounds – everything was so still and calm, there was hardly any sound and nobody to be seen. I had passed one couple that morning but saw nobody else until I reached Portage Bay.

The track passes loads of beautiful coves and inlets – the water is incredibly blue and clear – and climbs many hills as well as descending several rocky parts. I had lunch at Eatwells Lookout, a short hike up a separate track, where there are 360 degree views which were just amazing. I also got more confident on the hills (both up and down) as the day went on, but of course still had some funny falls and got stuck in the mud a few times. My back brake wasn’t working properly most of the day (probably stuck with mud) but I couldn’t seem to fix it so just continued, seeing as I wasn’t exactly breaking speed limits on the downhill sections anyway. Again, pretty pleased to reach Portage, as my bum was starting to ache at the end of the day! I hosed off my bike, and myself, and then got into my cabin, which again, I had to myself. A hot shower was extremely welcome this time, and then I made myself some dinner and read for a bit. Went to the lounge area (there was a fancy part to this hotel too although I was staying in the backpackers section!) and sat by the fire, chatting to some French guy who was sailing and had arrived on his yacht that day. I always seem to meet French people. Another early night because I was shattered, but had enjoyed this day much more!

The next morning I set off about 9:30am, and biked up the road to Mistletoe Bay, instead of on the track – it was going to be a massive incline on muddy, rocky terrain so I knew I’d probably have to push most of it. The road was better, and still challenging but a bit more fun! I joined the track again and biked on to Anakiwa – probably the nicest part of the track to bike, gradual ups and downs, and then a long but rocky downhill into Anakiwa.


The 1km sign was very welcoming to see. I biked back along the windy road to Picton – a steep hill up with loads of curves up to the top and then down a similar road on the other side into Picton. Showers and wind started to come in (a ‘Southerly'...I'm learning these weather patterns slowly!) during the last half hour, so it was good timing as the afternoon had pretty bad weather. I couldn’t feel my toes anymore when I reached Picton, but I collected by pack, dismantled my bike into the back of the car, and had a well-deserved hot shower at the Backpackers. I went into town (which is tiny) after some lunch and had a look around, and mainly full of touristy shops. The Toot 'n' Whistle pub next to the VIP Backpackers is worth a visit - it had a nice atmosphere and I met a couple of cool people in there in the evening.

The overview...

Leaving from Ship Cove in the afternoon, I cycled to Endeavor Inlet on the first day. Despite overcast conditions, the misty views added to the beauty of the place. The second day the sun came out, and once up on the Kenepuru Saddle, the views were spectacular. It was completely calm and still looking over the Sounds, and I didn't see more than two people before arriving in Portage Bay. I was covered in mud (as was my bike), and having gone through several alternating feelings of amusement and annoyance at falling off, a hot shower was more than welcome! The sunset over Portage Bay was superb - peacefulness seemed to surround the entire area. The following morning I biked out to Anakiwa, and then back along the road to Picton. Despite the fact I'd have probably enjoyed the track more biking with someone else, I'm really glad I've seen it at this time of year when there are so few people about, it is definitely an amazing area.

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Abel Tasman

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I left Nelson at 6:45am for Marahau, and was on the track by 8:15am. It was a frosty start but I was speed-walking with the pack and soon warmed up. The first day I walked from Marahau to Awaroa Hut. The weather was mixed, pretty overcast and there were several showers with some sunny periods.

Onetahuni Beach was really nice – a long stretch of sand around a bay which would have been great in the sun. Pity there wasn't much sun! The whole coastline was incredible – jagged cliff outcrops over little inlets, coves, and large sandy bays. I stopped at Awaroa Lodge (very nice) around 3pm to warm up by the fire, and met a French guy as I was leaving who I’d seen earlier around Bark Bay. We had a drink and chatted for 45mins before heading on to the hut. There were 7 others there, and the fire was already going – very welcoming when you have soaking wet feet and are pretty cold. Sat and chatted to everyone, shared a bottle of wine with the French guy which we got at the Lodge, and then had an early night – I was pretty tired by this point.



Having poured with rain all night together with pretty strong winds, we woke up to gorgeous sunshine and wall-to-wall blue skies. We sat on the porch having breakfast, and waited for tide to go out some more – the crossing from Awaroa can only be made 2-3 hours either side of low tide which was at 2pm. The Frenchy (Cume) and I were the only ones going North, so everyone else left slightly earlier after a relaxed morning. We left about 11:30am, and crossed the inlet, about waist deep in water which was pretty cold, but thankfully the sun warmed us up quickly at the other side. We walked through Totarauni, Goat and Anapai Bays, and reached Mutton Cove which was my favourite I think – it looked like a brilliant place to camp, kayak in the bay and just relax. We walked up to Separation Point and saw loads of seals, got a bit too close for their liking, and got chased over the rocks – they are deceptively quick! Continued on to Whariwharangi, and started a fire which unfortunately never really got going in the hut. An American girl arrived a little after us, having walked from Bark Bay that day. I realized my head torch was missing – which was really annoying as I thought I must have left it at Awaroa, but the more I thought about it the more I think someone must have taken it. Too bad. Another early night after a long day’s walking.

I got up early the next morning to leave (the other two were headed to Wainui and out), and set off around Gibbs Hill for a different route back to Totaranui. I had planned to get the watertaxi back from there, but was too tempted to go back to Awaroa and have a look for the head torch. I crossed the inlet far too early, and was wet up to nearly my chest, holding my pack as high as I could. All to no avail – no head torch at the hut. Luckily the sun came out right as I finished crossing, because I was absoloutely freezing by this point. There were a couple of others at the hut waiting to cross and go North – they decided to wait a little longer...probably a good choice! After warming up I went to the Lodge, where I met a couple of locals who were kayaking to Bark’s Bay. I decided instead of getting the water taxi I’d just walk out, staying one extra night. We had a beer and then I walked/ran to Bark’s Bay (tended to run on the downhill inclines, partly through boredom and partly to pass the time a bit quicker). Reached Bark’s Bay in record time :), and several others were staying there too. Warmed up quickly by the fire, and then walked to the bay where I chatted to the kayakers for a while and had a beer with them. They were camping out that night (did not sound like fun). I played cards at the hut with an Irish couple, a Danish girl, and a young Kiwi girl who was there with her dad.

The next day I left fairly early, pretty eager by this point to make it out and back for a warm shower and a good meal! I was out of the park by about 1:15pm, and I met three of the folks from Awaroa Hut from the first night – they had all been going South at that point, but had stopped in each hut on the way! I went into the arts and carving place at the entrance, which had fascinating Maori wood carvings, definitely worth a visit. Then I randomly bumped into Nathan and Rudy – Leask’s friends from Montrose, who I’d met really briefly a couple of weeks before, it was quite amusing.


I drove the coastal road to Kaiteriteri, where I stopped and did a short walk around Big and Little Kaiterteri, two neighbouring beaches which were really nice. SO nice to get rid of that pack! I was really tired when I made it back to Nelson, but had a great trip and really enjoyed seeing everything.



The overview...


The track is a fairly easy 56km walkway, with superb views and following a spectacular coastline. The section north of Totaranui was the most beautiful, with long stretches of white sandy beaches, small hidden coves and inlets. The first day I walked from Marahau to Awaroa Hut, then crossed the inlet a little earlier than low tide (!) and headed north to Whariwharangi the second day.


After a slight change of plan I went inland over Gibbs Hill circling round to Totaranui and made it back to Bark's Bay for a third night, before walking out to Marahau the next day. It was a beautiful walk, and although the weather was mixed I'm glad I did it at this time of year when it isn't very busy.

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Nelson Lakes

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I left Christchurch around 9am and drove to Nelson Lakes, via Balmoral Forest, Waterfall Creek, and Maruia Falls.



 It was perfect weather,  with blue skies and   sunshine all the way.








Arrived at Lake Rotorua around 3pm, and ran around Braeburn track to the waterfall, and then the Flower Bush walk and Nature Walk. The lake was beautiful, really still and calm with not many people about as the sun was going down.


I attempted a 4WD track as an interesting shortcut over to Lake Rotorua, which turned out to be a bad idea – made it very slowly nearly over the top, but got stuck on ice and had to do a 9-point turn on a narrow road sided by a steep cliff. That won't be attempted again...however, I made it down alive and continued by the normal road to Lake Rotoiti. I camped near the lakefront, sleeping in the back of the car – nice to have a warm sleeping bag! Woke up in the morning with a freezing nose to frost covering the ground and the car, but beautiful clear skies.

I started up Mt. Roberts Road and cut down to the Lakehead track on the right of the lake. Partly running, but walking on the rockier sections, I visited Whisky Falls on the way round to Coldwater Hut at the head of the lake.



  After stopping there and chatting to some random people I met having lunch in the sun, I got a lift in their wee boat to the other side of Coldwater stream!



I then came back via the Lakeside track, an easier track to run, through trees and forest but without so many frosty rocks and fallen trees. There were gorgeous views and beautiful sunshine all day. I found an outdoors lodge used for scouts etc to change and discovered free showers – bonus Shortly after I continued on my way to Nelson, but I'll definitely go back to that area, it was really beautiful.



In Nelson itself, I explored the area with quite a bit of running and mountain-biking. The Maitai Valley was a favourite, and the views from the top of Fringed Hill were excellent (although the climb up there was quite the challenge!)




The overview...

This was a short visit to Nelson Lakes on my way up to Nelson. The area was absoloutely beautiful and I definitely plan on going back there to explore some more! I did a couple of short runs around the area by Lake Rotorua, and saw the sun setting over the lake which was really pretty. At Lake Rotoiti I did the track around the lake which was a nice preview to how scenic the whole area must be. The weather was great and I'm looking forward to going back another time.

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